11/25/2023 0 Comments 7.2 kw generatorYet others will use it for tailgating, hooking up a massive OLED flat-screen to watch the big game on in the parking lot. It can practically power an entire job site if necessary. Touted as one of the main reasons to go with a Ford over the competition, the Pro Power Onboard generator can serve a variety of uses. Until the release of the 2021 Ford F-150, however, such a feature didn’t exist. So I returned it.An onboard generator on a pickup truck seems like an obvious feature. Trailer AC seems to be doing fine on the 15 amp, as long as I am not making it freeze up.Īlso FYI - I ordered this soft starter but once it showed up the warning label in the package clearly said it was not meant for ACs. Basically, it's stepping down the 30 amp to a 15 amp and using the right extension cord rated for 15 amps. For the 30 amp receptacle, I have this connecting to this connecting to this. I now have the trailer/AC and my tire warmers drawing from both banks (30 amp receptacle for one and the 120V receptacle right below for the other seem to draw from separate banks).That keeps the compressor cycling optimally and seems to be keeping it from freezing up, which I think was the primary cause of the surge/overload. First thing I did was turn the temperature of my overhead AC to 80% - it was originally running at 100%.All good now and here's my setup that's working well: Since making this thread, I have had two more days at the track pulling the same loads off the generator without issue. Then use the other size with a second extension cord and run it into your trailer and plug the Microwave and Coffee Pot into that 2nd extension cord.Īn update on this. If you can't or don't want to rewire your trailer, then I suggest getting the 240 to x2 120V dogbone and connecting one side into your trailer connection. Or if you wanted to have a bigger margin, get the dogbone that plugs into the 240V truck connector and manifests into 2 120V plugs. Then you might could get away with a regular (but heavy duty) 120V standard plug extension cord x 2 from each leg in the truck to your 2 connections on your trailer. This is to make your trailer functional and to safety code for concurrent appliance use. Then the kitchen stuff (microwave and kitchen plugs for coffee maker, InstaPot etc on the other circuit. You would have A/C and other lesser loads (like fridge and TV, etc) on one circuit. My suggestion, regardless of the truck, you need to split the loads in your trailer, and install another connection. Or if you use the 120V plugs on the truck, you can get 20A at 120V = 2.4KW on each of the 2 circuits. But you get 2 of them, coming out of that 4 pin plug (with the right dogbone adapter). However, if you have 120V load only (like most trailers), then you get 30A x 120V = 3.6KW. If you pull from the 30A 240 plug you can get 7.2KW to drive a 240V load. So if you have truly mean you are running all those concurrently thru a 20Amp plug/connection you are way over code and safety, even worse depending on the wiring size in the trailer and the size and length of you external extension cord. Keurig is about the same as microwave when it is heating the water.įridge is lower, and can be on propane (usually). Microwave is about 12 amps running and can be 15+ briefly during start up. Compressor start up can be 20A and remember the compressor cycles off and on randomly thru out the day. Assume your A/C in trailer is a 13.5KBTU (smaller RV A/C).Ī/C running is about 13amps.
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